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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.